Wine for the holidays

Best values in two varietals, including a $5 chardonnay

Chardonnay

This best-selling wine is diversifying. It was once synonymous with wine that’s woody and buttery. Yet many of the ones in this roundup are crisper, fruitier chardonnays.

We tested 27 wines and recommend seven for their combination of quality and price. Except as noted, all are very good and from the 2006 vintage. Three hail from California, three from Chile, and one each from Australia and Washington state. All prices are recommended retail; you might see the wines selling for less.

Consider what you’ll be eating with the wine. Powerful wood-and-butter chardonnays typically pair well only with rich foods, such as fettuccine alfredo or salmon in a cream sauce. Fruitier chards tend to be more versatile; good pairings include grilled fish and seafood, cheeses, and spicy Thai food.

Pinot Noir

If there’s one wine that might pair well with all the dishes on your holiday table, it’s pinot noir. At its best, this medium-bodied red is subtle, typically dry, and at least moderately complex.

With flavors that can include raspberry, strawberry, red cherry, and spicy notes, pinot noir is a classic pairing with roast beef, turkey and grilled salmon. It also suits other broiled, roasted, or grilled meats, fish, and poultry, along with other savory, rich herbed foods, including roasted vegetables.