September 2007
Popcorn
Which kernels are king?
Popcorn is one of those rare snacks that's not only beloved (on average, Americans eat about a quart a week) but also healthful.
It's whole grain, high in fiber, low in calories and fat, and bulky, so it may fill you up faster than other snacks.
Unfortunately, plain kernels popped without oil or butter can be tough, and taste bland and dry. The trick is to add enough fat and salt to make popcorn tasty but not so much that it becomes a nutritional no-no.
For this popcorn comparison, our experts tried 11 microwavable popcorns, the kind bagged with oil and salt, that aim to strike that compromise. Some have about half the calories and less than one-fifth the fat of other popcorns.
What we found
Most of the popcorns were crispy, crunchy, and nicely salted. They tasted quite similar, with only subtle differences in flavor intensity and saltiness. However, we found in our popcorn comparison that their "butter" flavor was unmistakably artificial. They lacked a strong corn flavor and the intense toasted-grain character and tenderness that comes from corn popped in plenty of oil. The two lowest-rated products, Newman's Own 94% Fat Free Butter and Light Butter, also had an unexpected cheese-like flavor.
Nutrition of the tested popcorns varies slightly from product to product. A half-bag of popped corn--a more sensible serving size than the 2 to 4 tablespoons of uncooked kernels that's cited on nutrition labels--contains 105 to 199 calories, 126 to 355 milligrams of sodium, and 1.8 to 6.6 grams of total fat. Many of the products provide 20 percent or more of the government's recommended daily amount of fiber: 25 grams.
All of the popcorns in our popcorn comparison except Target's Market Pantry claim to be free of trans fat, which raises the risk of heart disease. Officially, a product can have some trans fat--less than 0.5 gram per manufacturer's serving--and still be labeled trans fat free. When the modest servings listed on the packages were popped, all products in the popcorn comparison met their claim. Per half-bag, most popcorns were still under the limit. Jolly Time, however, had 0.5 gram of trans fat per half-bag; Market Pantry, 1.4 grams. Whatever the product, the words "partially hydrogenated oil" in the ingredients list indicate that it contains at least some trans fat.
Many manufacturers are replacing trans fat with palm oil, which isn't a whole lot better for you. Palm oil is high in saturated fat, which raises the risk of heart disease. The Ratings list total fat and saturated fat. Per day, people consuming 2,000 calories should limit total fat to 65 grams and saturated fat to 20 grams.
How to choose
Nine of the 11 products in our popcorn ratings tasted very good, and there was little difference in flavor or texture. It makes sense to shop by price or nutrition, taking your particular needs into account:
To forgo fat. Try Orville Redenbacher's Smart Pop Butter 94% Fat Free, Act II 94% Fat Free Butter, or Pop Secret Butter 94% Fat Free, which have no more than 2 grams of total fat per serving and minimal amounts of saturated fat.
If sodium is a concern. Choose Smart Balance Light Butter, which has 126 milligrams per half-bag.
To save money. Consider Act II Light Butter, which costs 26 cents per half-bag. The cheapest product in the popcorn ratings is Market Pantry, but its 1.4 grams of trans fat argue against choosing it.
To pop it yourself. Cooking kernels yourself in an air popper, on the stove, or in a microwavable bowl is inexpensive and allows you to control the amount and type of fat (try peanut, corn, or canola oil) and sodium. We found in our popcorn ratings that the Nordic Ware Corn Popper, a 12-cup bowl for microwave ovens, worked well. It costs about $10 and is widely sold in stores and online. You simply pour in kernels (with or without oil) and place the lid on top.
Never microwave kernels in a glass bowl, which could be shattered by the sudden temperature change caused by the popcorn's steam. The Popcorn Board, a trade group, also warns against popping corn in plain paper bags, because they could catch fire or damage the oven.
If you like it sweet. Kettle corn is popped with sugar or related flavorings (brown sugar or maple syrup, for instance). A lower-calorie, microwave kettle corn we tested in our popcorn ratings from Orville Redenbacher, had a strong flavor of the artificial sweetener sucralose. Consider making a "light" kettle corn yourself by adding small amounts of sugar, salt, and oil to kernels and popping them on the stove.
Unfortunately, plain kernels popped without oil or butter can be tough, and taste bland and dry. The trick is to add enough fat and salt to make popcorn tasty but not so much that it becomes a nutritional no-no.
For this popcorn comparison, our experts tried 11 microwavable popcorns, the kind bagged with oil and salt, that aim to strike that compromise. Some have about half the calories and less than one-fifth the fat of other popcorns.
What we found
Most of the popcorns were crispy, crunchy, and nicely salted. They tasted quite similar, with only subtle differences in flavor intensity and saltiness. However, we found in our popcorn comparison that their "butter" flavor was unmistakably artificial. They lacked a strong corn flavor and the intense toasted-grain character and tenderness that comes from corn popped in plenty of oil. The two lowest-rated products, Newman's Own 94% Fat Free Butter and Light Butter, also had an unexpected cheese-like flavor.
Nutrition of the tested popcorns varies slightly from product to product. A half-bag of popped corn--a more sensible serving size than the 2 to 4 tablespoons of uncooked kernels that's cited on nutrition labels--contains 105 to 199 calories, 126 to 355 milligrams of sodium, and 1.8 to 6.6 grams of total fat. Many of the products provide 20 percent or more of the government's recommended daily amount of fiber: 25 grams.
All of the popcorns in our popcorn comparison except Target's Market Pantry claim to be free of trans fat, which raises the risk of heart disease. Officially, a product can have some trans fat--less than 0.5 gram per manufacturer's serving--and still be labeled trans fat free. When the modest servings listed on the packages were popped, all products in the popcorn comparison met their claim. Per half-bag, most popcorns were still under the limit. Jolly Time, however, had 0.5 gram of trans fat per half-bag; Market Pantry, 1.4 grams. Whatever the product, the words "partially hydrogenated oil" in the ingredients list indicate that it contains at least some trans fat.
Many manufacturers are replacing trans fat with palm oil, which isn't a whole lot better for you. Palm oil is high in saturated fat, which raises the risk of heart disease. The Ratings list total fat and saturated fat. Per day, people consuming 2,000 calories should limit total fat to 65 grams and saturated fat to 20 grams.
How to choose
Nine of the 11 products in our popcorn ratings tasted very good, and there was little difference in flavor or texture. It makes sense to shop by price or nutrition, taking your particular needs into account:
To forgo fat. Try Orville Redenbacher's Smart Pop Butter 94% Fat Free, Act II 94% Fat Free Butter, or Pop Secret Butter 94% Fat Free, which have no more than 2 grams of total fat per serving and minimal amounts of saturated fat.
If sodium is a concern. Choose Smart Balance Light Butter, which has 126 milligrams per half-bag.
To save money. Consider Act II Light Butter, which costs 26 cents per half-bag. The cheapest product in the popcorn ratings is Market Pantry, but its 1.4 grams of trans fat argue against choosing it.
To pop it yourself. Cooking kernels yourself in an air popper, on the stove, or in a microwavable bowl is inexpensive and allows you to control the amount and type of fat (try peanut, corn, or canola oil) and sodium. We found in our popcorn ratings that the Nordic Ware Corn Popper, a 12-cup bowl for microwave ovens, worked well. It costs about $10 and is widely sold in stores and online. You simply pour in kernels (with or without oil) and place the lid on top.
Never microwave kernels in a glass bowl, which could be shattered by the sudden temperature change caused by the popcorn's steam. The Popcorn Board, a trade group, also warns against popping corn in plain paper bags, because they could catch fire or damage the oven.
If you like it sweet. Kettle corn is popped with sugar or related flavorings (brown sugar or maple syrup, for instance). A lower-calorie, microwave kettle corn we tested in our popcorn ratings from Orville Redenbacher, had a strong flavor of the artificial sweetener sucralose. Consider making a "light" kettle corn yourself by adding small amounts of sugar, salt, and oil to kernels and popping them on the stove.
